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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.